Madamoiselle Chanel by C.W. Gortner is one of many biographies that details the life of Coco Chanel. I had picked it up while going through the biographies of the times 100 women of the year and enjoyed it thoroughly!
To those of us a few steps away from the fashion world, it would be easy to overlook the role Coco Chanel played in shaping modern fashion. Included in Chanel’s contributions, would be the prevalence of ready-to-wear clothing, the juxtaposition of neutral colors (black+white with accents), the little black dress and the classic Chanel suit, and its derivatives. Her career balanced tradition and innovation, challenging what it meant to be feminine throughout the 20th century. One might wonder how Chanel would feel about athleisure, and whether we took it too far (I am, of course, typing this in black yoga pants).
We spend hours each day having our hair styled. If we forgo the effort, imagine what else we could do with our time?
enterpreneur, innovator, icon
I enjoyed how this biography delved deep into her entrepreneurial adventures from the tiny atelier to the enterprise. No journey is easy, and Chanel’s story was no exception through the trials and tribulations of managing investments, cashflow management and scaling the venture, the backdrop of the early 20th century: the war and then her return from retirement in the 70s made the reader recognize how much of a pioneer Chanel was in comparison to her contemporaries. One of her lovers had this very apt description - “too many people struggle to become what is expected of them, when as we both know, what is expected of us is rarely what we desire”
Especially poignant were the moments where Chanel accurately predicted the future of the fashion industry. Through the crafting of the iconic Chanel no 5 perfume, to the recognition the the Great Depression would spawn the ready-to-wear movement. I resonated with her idea that to resist progress, was to risk extinction and have contemplated what it meant for someone that routinely is surrounded by innovators. What places a trend apart from real progress? Can such foresight be learned or is it shaped by formative experiences?
and yet, she was not perfect
What Chanel has done for women is present independence, without sacrificing ideals, but it was not withstanding controversy. Her string of lovers, and related involvement with the Nazi party had impacted my perception of her character. Chanel was not perfect, and perhaps was selfish in pursuit of her ambition.
The author describes Chanel’s worries on this topic. Her fears, doubts and vulnerabilities described someone that had to navigate an uncertain world. This work was a reminder that even the most influential, and admirable (as my intention here is not to dilute her impact) figures in history are not immune to mistakes.